Walking Like the Egyptians - a 3 month trip: June 2011

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Transitioning Egypt Still using Tear Gas

Those who were lost during the revolution were mourned yesterday in Tahrir Square, alongside demands to actually imprison members of the Mubarak regime for their committed ills and for killing protesters.

However, when the tension rose security forces began to issue tear gas, reminiscent of the first days of the revolution.

Tahrir Square still feels tense and is the litmus test going forward for Egypt's new government, and on Tuesday evening the litmus paper was showing acid levels of the colour orange. I don't find this alarming as tension levels are high amongst Egyptians, I do find it, however, unacceptable.

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Castle Zaman: Taba-Nuweiba Road, South Sinai

Castle Zaman

Castle Zaman, means 'old castle' is arabic. Now, It is considered, and rightly so, a five star experience, and I highly recommend. It costs 150 LE to enter, which covers most of your food, but drinks are pricey! However, it was worth it, as I have never been any where so gorgeous before. And with a quota as to how many people can stay for the day (no over night stay) it feels like it is yours, unless you are surrounded by Germans, as we were for the last few hours - pish!

The staff all speak English, are really friendly, and seem only to be blonde women ... one from Kent, England, one from Russia and a Norwegian.

I can't describe it's beauty well enough, so I will let some pictures do that instead...

Me and Ahmed (Mobs) in the natural pool, below the castle

The gorgeous Castle Zeman dog!

Andy and I chilling by the pool with the Sea behind us!

Now, the food at Castle Zaman is some of the best sea food I have ever had, they have all sort on offer, particularly big dishes to share! DO NOT EAT MUCH BEFORE GOING! When you get there, in the late morning, you have to order your food soon as it is slow-cooked for around 3 hours. You tell them when you want it, and then when it is close to read they come and get you and away you go ... FEAST

We ordered sea food and fish

F*I*T

Octopus Moush and Crabby Cav!

Mobs inappropriately eating a prawn

At the end of the day we had tea from St Catherine in Sinai and it was happy times, we did not want to leave!

Team Castle Zeman ... will be back inshallah!

New Age Bedouin & Bedouin Tax

New Age Bedouin

So, when I thought about Bedouins I thought about long white dress, head scarf action, dark skin, strange arabic, and mountains.

Such a pose is what I expected whilst amongst the mountains of Sinai.

However, most of the bedouins we met were fully equipped with every technological advance we had: mobile phones, lap tops, internet, blackberries and some nice transportation - not the camel I had presumed would get them from A to B. Many adorn some nice outfits as well, from Saudi Arabia or Dubai, a few, even wear Western-based out fits, sans head gear, I found that confusing.

An example, below:

Why was I so baffled by this? It seemed paradoxical and a little bit perturbing. However, the New Age Bedouin, also drinks, and can really party - surpassing all in number of hours awake and number of glasses finished and smokes puffed, whilst keeping in touch with their heritage - many will tell you incredible stories about the women and men of the older generations (who are very much still in line with the original ways of the bedouin).

Albeit strange, it was alluring - the bedouins are a smart and cunning bunch, with bedouins speaking very good english, working with the technological advances of the west, and joining the past times and ways of those outside of their traditions, they are able to reach out to more of us, because they know how we live, and at the same time maximise their opportunity to get money.

Bedouin Tax

There is no need to see the bedouins as thieves, bedouins are smart, and despite their wealth, most don't live like us in the West. The New Age bedouin has just been able to understand what can be done with his land and his traditions, in order to live. You should know that the bedouins are the owners or most of the land in Sinai, in fact an desert land in Egypt really. Therefore, they can set the agreement. As Andy and I look for a villa in Agami (North Coast of Egypt) our broker is a bedouin, and the owner is a bedouin.

The bedouin tax, does not, in fact, come to much - it's just something we noticed and found amusing, and a tiny bit rude - although who wouldn't do what they are doing? What was once desert is now camp sites and exclusive hotels (Taba Heights) for outsiders.

We sat amongst the bedouins as they re-told ancient stories and simultaneously drank our booze and smoked peoples' smokes, this is what Andy and I came to call the 'Bedouin Tax'.

For all Those Wondering How Safe it is in Egypt ....

EGYPT FEELS SAFER THAN LONDON!

Throughout our trip I have not felt un safe once.

As a visitor you can avoid areas, which may feel un safe, i.e. during protests etc,..

Every tourist-based area is covered with security and protection - think about it, Egypt is not about to

lose it's most important assets, it's history, its tourism.

Therefore, all I have to say is this:

Visit Egypt and Support its History, and its future!

The King of Spades, Mubarak, has left remember ...

(graffiti in Cairo I saw last week, hee hee)

Ras(ta) Shitan - Sinai

Ras(ta) Shitan

Ras Shitan, means 'Devil's head' in arabic. Not because it is an awful place, but quite simply because of its geographical design. It looks like, when you stand in the middle, like the head of a Devil - on either side of you there is a 'horn' like protrusion of land. It is located in Sinai, near Taba and not far from Sharm.

To explain how I feel about Ras Shitan is quite simple:

Mou & Cav & Mobs Love Ras

It was absolutely gorgeous and a great get away from city life, and all the rest. A peaceful place where all you can do is relax, sit in the sun, swim and eat fantastic home-cooked Egyptian, Sudanese, Israeli and Lebanese food. What more could you want? Below is Andy and very good friend Ahmed digging in to some delicious lunch - or was it breakfast?

In the evenings, you can be entertained by musicians who come from all over to chill and play their instruments - a lot of the time Bedouins join in on the fun, and whip out a simsimaya (see pic below) and create a tune. However, beware of the Bedouin tax - in next post, as Bedouins are not so behind on technology and business as you think - see 'New Age Bedouin' post.

You live in a hut for your stay, which can vary between very minimalist (no electricity, just a mattress and mossy net) to well equipped huts (with electricity, bed type situations, mossy net, more space etc). The price will vary depending on what you pick. We paid maximum £7.50 a night and had a good hut, on the beach and it was just perfect! Although, a powerful shower is something to be desired in all the camps there ... but being a princess is not appropriate for this type of break. Embrace the utter freedom and serenity Ras has to offer but letting go of all that superficial stuff we deal with daily.

An example of a hut! :)

During the day you chill, swim and sun bath. Talk to friends and new people who are either in your camp or who have just stumbled across your circle and stay for a while. Winter time is best to come they say, however we went in June and it was beautiful! We avoided the sun from 1pm - 3pm as it could get ridiculously hot, however the temperature at night was lovely. Sometimes a jumper was necessary but mostly due to the mossies. When the wind was blowing from the mountains the breeze was so warm that only a t-shirt was necessary (an appropriate bottom-half clothing).

It feels so safe in Ras - you can leave your hut door open, your camera and wallet lying around - you will find it the next day in its place and all money remaining, which was a little difficult to get used to for a Londoner! The only thing not to leave lying around is that bottle of rum or whiskey you bought with you, now that's fair game ;)

Even the security measures there are back were in full swing - 4 check points if you take a coach and 6 or 7 if you drive.

However, Ras is most beautiful, I think, at night ... when the stars come out.