Transitioning Egypt Still using Tear Gas

Those who were lost during the revolution were mourned yesterday in Tahrir Square, alongside demands to actually imprison members of the Mubarak regime for their committed ills and for killing protesters. 

However, when the tension rose security forces began to issue tear gas, reminiscent of the first days of the revolution. 

Tahrir Square still feels tense and is the litmus test going forward for Egypt's new government, and on Tuesday evening the litmus paper was showing acid levels of the colour orange. I don't find this alarming as tension levels are high amongst Egyptians, I do find it, however, unacceptable. 

Castle Zaman: Taba-Nuweiba Road, South Sinai

Castle Zaman 

Castle Zaman, means 'old castle' is arabic. Now, It is considered, and rightly so, a five star experience, and I highly recommend. It costs 150 LE to enter, which covers most of your food, but drinks are pricey! However, it was worth it, as I have never been any where so gorgeous before. And with a quota as to how many people can stay for the day (no over night stay) it feels like it is yours, unless you are surrounded by Germans,  as we were for the last few hours - pish! 

The staff all speak English, are really friendly, and seem only to be blonde women ... one from Kent, England, one from Russia and a Norwegian. 

I can't describe it's beauty well enough, so I will let some pictures do that instead...

Me and Ahmed (Mobs) in the natural pool, below the castle 

The gorgeous Castle Zeman dog!

Andy and I chilling by the pool with the Sea behind us!

Now, the food at Castle Zaman is some of the best sea food I have ever had, they have all sort on offer, particularly big dishes to share! DO NOT EAT MUCH BEFORE GOING! When you get there, in the late morning, you have to order your food soon as it is slow-cooked for around 3 hours. You tell them when you want it, and then when it is close to read they come and get you and away you go ... FEAST

We ordered sea food and fish 

F*I*T

Octopus Moush and Crabby Cav!

Mobs inappropriately eating a prawn 

At the end of the day we had tea from St Catherine in Sinai and it was happy times, we did not want to leave!

Team Castle Zeman ... will be back inshallah!

New Age Bedouin & Bedouin Tax

New Age Bedouin


So, when I thought about Bedouins I thought about long white dress, head scarf action, dark skin, strange arabic, and mountains.

Such a pose is what I expected whilst amongst the mountains of Sinai.

However, most of the bedouins we met were fully equipped with every technological advance we had: mobile phones, lap tops, internet, blackberries and some nice transportation - not the camel I had presumed would get them from A to B. Many adorn some nice outfits as well, from Saudi Arabia or Dubai, a few, even wear Western-based out fits, sans head gear, I found that confusing. 

An example, below: 

Why was I so baffled by this? It seemed paradoxical and a little bit perturbing. However, the New Age Bedouin, also drinks, and can really party - surpassing all in number of hours awake and number of glasses finished and smokes puffed, whilst keeping in touch with their heritage - many will tell you incredible stories about the women and men of the older generations (who are very much still in line with the original ways of the bedouin). 

Albeit strange, it was alluring - the bedouins are a smart and cunning bunch, with bedouins speaking very good english, working with the technological advances of the west, and joining the past times and ways of those outside of their traditions, they are able to reach out to more of us, because they know how we live, and at the same time maximise their opportunity to get money. 

Bedouin Tax

There is no need to see the bedouins as thieves, bedouins are smart, and despite their wealth, most don't live like us in the West. The New Age bedouin has just been able to understand what can be done with his land and his traditions, in order to live. You should know that the bedouins are the owners or most of the land in Sinai, in fact an desert land in Egypt really. Therefore, they can set the agreement. As Andy and I look for a villa in Agami (North Coast of Egypt) our broker is a bedouin, and the owner is a bedouin. 

The bedouin tax, does not, in fact, come to much - it's just something we noticed and found amusing, and a tiny bit rude - although who wouldn't do what they are doing? What was once desert is now camp sites and exclusive hotels (Taba Heights) for outsiders. 

We sat amongst the bedouins as they re-told ancient stories and simultaneously drank our booze and smoked peoples' smokes, this is what Andy and I came to call the 'Bedouin Tax'. 

For all Those Wondering How Safe it is in Egypt ....

EGYPT FEELS SAFER THAN LONDON!

Throughout our trip I have not felt un safe once. 

As a visitor you can avoid areas, which may feel un safe, i.e. during protests etc,..

Every tourist-based area is covered with security and protection - think about it, Egypt is not about to 

lose it's most important assets, it's history, its tourism. 

Therefore, all I have to say is this:

Visit Egypt and Support its History, and its future! 

The King of Spades, Mubarak, has left remember ...

(graffiti in Cairo I saw last week, hee hee)

Ras(ta) Shitan - Sinai

Ras(ta) Shitan

Ras Shitan, means 'Devil's head' in arabic. Not because it is an awful place, but quite simply because of its geographical design. It looks like, when you stand in the middle, like the head of a Devil - on either side of you there is a 'horn' like protrusion of land. It is located in Sinai, near Taba and not far from Sharm. 

To explain how I feel about Ras Shitan is quite simple:

&

&

Mou & Cav & Mobs Love Ras 

It was absolutely gorgeous and a great get away from city life, and all the rest. A peaceful place where all you can do is relax, sit in the sun, swim and eat fantastic home-cooked Egyptian, Sudanese, Israeli and Lebanese food. What more could you want?  Below is Andy and very good friend Ahmed digging in to some delicious lunch - or was it breakfast?

In the evenings, you can be entertained by musicians who come from all over to chill and play their instruments - a lot of the time Bedouins join in on the fun, and whip out a simsimaya  (see pic below) and create a tune. However, beware of the Bedouin tax - in next post, as Bedouins are not so behind on technology and business as you think - see 'New Age Bedouin' post.

You live in a hut for your stay, which can vary between very minimalist (no electricity, just a mattress and mossy net) to well equipped huts (with electricity, bed type situations, mossy net, more space etc). The price will vary depending on what you pick. We paid maximum £7.50 a night and had a good hut, on the beach and it was just perfect! Although, a powerful shower is something to be desired in all the camps there ... but being a princess is not appropriate for this type of break. Embrace the utter freedom and serenity Ras has to offer but letting go of all that superficial stuff we deal with daily.

An example of a hut! :)

During the day you chill, swim and sun bath. Talk to friends and new people who are either in your camp or who have just stumbled across your circle and stay for a while. Winter time is best to come they say, however we went in June and it was beautiful! We avoided the sun from 1pm - 3pm as it could get ridiculously hot, however the temperature at night was lovely. Sometimes a jumper was necessary but mostly due to the mossies. When the wind was blowing from the mountains the breeze was so warm that only a t-shirt was necessary (an appropriate bottom-half clothing).

It feels so safe in Ras - you can leave your hut door open, your camera and wallet lying around - you will find it the next day in its place and all money remaining, which was a little difficult to get used to for a Londoner! The only thing not to leave lying around is that bottle of rum or whiskey you bought with you, now that's fair game ;) 

Even the security measures there are back were in full swing - 4 check points if you take a coach and 6 or 7 if you drive. 

However, Ras is most beautiful, I think, at night ... when the stars come out.

This is one of Andy's pictures - seeing that many stars, whilst lying on the beach was incredible! 

Whilst you watched the stars at night, you might as well stay awake and watch the sun rise ...

Mobs and I enjoying the sun rise 

In short:

Visit Ras Shitan if you can, I will go back soon!

The Curfew has been Lifted - 15th June

The Curfew was officially lifted on the 15th June 

Ace!

Going out in Alexandria

Going out in Alexandria - De Ja Vu 

Monday night - buy one get one free!

A cocktail is the equivalent, with this deal, to £1.50!

My Mojito and Andy's Bullfrog

The Monday Party People:

from me, Andy, Nagla, Nesma and Nader

Great music, people, cocktails and place!

S & M quite the combination!

S & M 

Friends for a long time  

Perfectly complimentary 

Somewhat weird and can get crazy 

S generally does what M asks 

M is always thankful for S 

Thank you Shamel for looking after Andy and I!

:)
x

A Special Blog for my Mum, or as she is known here, 'Queen Ann'

A message from your boyfriend at China House, Sofitel Hotel, Alexandria:

"Please come visit me during half term Queen Ann, I miss you!"

He continued, "I have been waiting for you for years, my beard has grown long, my smile vanished. 

But you Queen Ann can bring it back to me, all my sadness will disappear into an abyss"

Sweet really, if not a tad bizarre.

If that doesn't convince you, Andy's photo of the food should!

If that doesn't a picture of us happily devouring the food will, surely! 

Come on Queen Ann, you know you want to ....

Graffiti/Street Freedoms

Egypt is now covered with graffiti, much of it is the Egyptian flag, a true testament of love for the country.

Some are signs of peace, like below near where we live in Alex ...

Others are signs of struggle, this one is by the sea front in Alexandria ...

However, it is a dangerous expression of ones thoughts and desires. During the run up to today's protests several people were detained for their street art. Mohammed Fahmy, an infamous graffiti/street artist was one of them. 

Street art is another way of expressing anger, justice and absence of fear, for example the graffiti below has been explained to represent the underwear of Mohamed H Tantawi, the commander of the armed forces - an attempt to show that many are no longer afraid of the military.

With the military cracking down on such freedoms of expression, and many are beautifully sprayed onto the rugged and somewhat desperate buildings and roads of Egypt, many have taken to using stencils in order to avoid being caught and probably detained. 

Egypt seems to be battling the future. People are talking on TV shows especially crested to serve endless discussions on the revolution everyday. Coffee shops are filled with the words of 'change', 'freedom' and 'stability'. Everyone has become politicised. However some are expressing it individually, as many no longer want to talk.

 Anger, love, peace, desperation is written on the walls, streets and bridges of Egypt. It is both beautiful and saddening as nothing seems to be happening, not really. 

Protests to be held in Cairo, Alex and other major cities this Friday!

Should I stay or should I go

?

Death Sentence for Policeman Convicted of Murdering Protesters

Mohamed Ibrahim Abdel-Monem

Killed 20 protesters

"at random"

Got sentenced to death 

on the 22nd May 2011

Mubarak to be Tried in Criminal Court

Pretty ugly situation ...

Egypt's public prosecutor has referred former president Hosni Mubarak to stand trial in a criminal court for his alleged role in the killing of anti-government protesters during the country's uprising.



The charges for Mubarak included "intentional murder, attempted killing of some demonstrators ... misuse of influence and deliberately wasting public funds and unlawfully making private financial gains and profits", the prosecutor said in a statement on Tuesday.


The prosecutor also referred Mubarak's two sons, Ala'a and Gamal, and a close confidant, Hussien Salam, to stand trial in a criminal court as well. Salam, a businessman, has been blamed for a controversial deal to supply Israel with gas at lower than usual prices. He has fled the country.


What with a policeman being charged with the death sentence for killing protesters in Egypt during the revolution, many voices, including newspaper can see the possibility of Mubarak having the same penalty.


However, there are sceptics, it seems that everytime the youth and other protest fired Egyptians organise a mass protest, like the one this coming Friday, the administration makes some concessions. However, making some concessions are not enough. What is more, having spoken to people - they know the concessions are part of a wider plan to pacify the protesters.




Egypt Tourism Slashed post-Revolution

So today I read quite the statistic about tourist figures in Egypt:

In February, there were just over 200,000 foreign visitors, while the year before the number was 1.1 million.

(Al Jazeera)

That is a HUGE drop! It was pretty obvious whilst at the pyramids just how few tourists were in Egypt, but when you take a look at the numbers from February, you begin to worry about the economic state of Egypt, a country where tourism brings a lot of its income.

There is a good video on Aljazeera concerning this fall in visitors: http://www.aljazeera.com/video/middleeast/2011/05/201152365513846172.html

Being in Egypt now, it does feel like Andy and I are some of the only visitors. I hope it changes during the high season of summer, for Egypt's sake...

cav post...

by popular demand...well 3 people, i have decided to contribute to the blog. superb effort so far from moush.

as you know i am not politically minded, but its been fascinating listening to the stories about the revolution and the way of life in these parts. From Moush's cousins getting shot (they are ok now) on Tahrir square to state tv showing a documentary about fish whilst the revolution was happening. 

i have taken a few snaps - but not as many as i wanted to - but hopefully some will be website worthy soon.

here is one anyways:

 cairo in the evening...on the nile.

cairo looks best at night...and night is when egyptians live. its a 24hr culture here, which is something to get used to vs. tubes closing by midnight in london. even with a curfew in place from 2am, the city is alive - and i have been assured that cairo and alex had more people walking around, going to cafes and bars pre-revolution, i.e. pre-curfew. so when the curfew is lifted, it will be even crazier than what we are seeing.

i am also suprised by the friendliness of the people here - not just moush's friends and family (who have been so nice), but friends of friends, and complete strangers. I got told about a bar in Agami which has the slogan 'there are no strangers here, only friends you haven't met' - which kind of sums it up. 

peace and love to all in the uk...i'll do another post when i have taken some more paps.

cav x

Fresca and Bikinis ... Agami, Bianci beach I

This is especially for my sister, Emma:

We did some reconnaissance of Agami beach this weekend, a 20-30 minute drive from Alexandria's centre... we will be staying and partying in Alex for the last 3 weeks we are in Egypt. It is a cool, chilled out area of the North Coast were the middle classes of Egypt tend to go in the summer.

When we were there it was pretty chilled, and with white soft (And sticky) sand, Mediterranean weather and green waters, its irresistible and BUSY!

Agami beach 

Fresca seller (wafer honey treats) and girls in bikinis ....

Fooooooood and Drink Part II: Alexandria

I am going to put it out there, but Alexandria has the best food in Egypt! FACT!

From fish, sea food to good old fashioned Egyptian food Alexandria's restaurants, street sellers, coffee shops use the best and freshest ingredients to create some of the most delicious, and yet simple dishes we have ever had (Andy agrees)!

Take a look ....

Traditional Egyptian food: Vine leaves and Peppers stuffed with yummy rice!

A treasure chest of meat! From kaftan (lamb) to chicken shewarma, all cooking on their own barbecue!

Modelling with meat: Shamel, a close old friend

Sitting by Alexandria's fortress we stumbled across a Greek club serving some AMAZING sea food - calamari to die for!

Hand picked shrimp by Andy caught on the day!

1.6 kg of fresh fish (you can pick the one you want) served with lemon and oil 

Modelling with fish: Stephanos

Kosheri - street food, typically Egyptian, and costs nothing ... around 50 pence for a huge serving! 

Made up of: rice, spaghetti, past, chick peas, fried onions and tomato sauce, drenched in a delicious soup and hot sauce! You eat this and you will be comatosed! 

STEAK AND CHIPS! FIT!

Ice cream!

A cone either side of a lump of this fresh ice-cream ... not thick and creamy but light, fresh and milky.

Oh, me and a friend, close friend 

Modelling with me: Nagla

Egyptians, needless to say, know how to eat!