S & M quite the combination!

S & M 

Friends for a long time  

Perfectly complimentary 

Somewhat weird and can get crazy 

S generally does what M asks 

M is always thankful for S 

Thank you Shamel for looking after Andy and I!

:)
x

A Special Blog for my Mum, or as she is known here, 'Queen Ann'

A message from your boyfriend at China House, Sofitel Hotel, Alexandria:

"Please come visit me during half term Queen Ann, I miss you!"

He continued, "I have been waiting for you for years, my beard has grown long, my smile vanished. 

But you Queen Ann can bring it back to me, all my sadness will disappear into an abyss"

Sweet really, if not a tad bizarre.

If that doesn't convince you, Andy's photo of the food should!

If that doesn't a picture of us happily devouring the food will, surely! 

Come on Queen Ann, you know you want to ....

Graffiti/Street Freedoms

Egypt is now covered with graffiti, much of it is the Egyptian flag, a true testament of love for the country.

Some are signs of peace, like below near where we live in Alex ...

Others are signs of struggle, this one is by the sea front in Alexandria ...

However, it is a dangerous expression of ones thoughts and desires. During the run up to today's protests several people were detained for their street art. Mohammed Fahmy, an infamous graffiti/street artist was one of them. 

Street art is another way of expressing anger, justice and absence of fear, for example the graffiti below has been explained to represent the underwear of Mohamed H Tantawi, the commander of the armed forces - an attempt to show that many are no longer afraid of the military.

With the military cracking down on such freedoms of expression, and many are beautifully sprayed onto the rugged and somewhat desperate buildings and roads of Egypt, many have taken to using stencils in order to avoid being caught and probably detained. 

Egypt seems to be battling the future. People are talking on TV shows especially crested to serve endless discussions on the revolution everyday. Coffee shops are filled with the words of 'change', 'freedom' and 'stability'. Everyone has become politicised. However some are expressing it individually, as many no longer want to talk.

 Anger, love, peace, desperation is written on the walls, streets and bridges of Egypt. It is both beautiful and saddening as nothing seems to be happening, not really. 

Protests to be held in Cairo, Alex and other major cities this Friday!

Should I stay or should I go

?

Death Sentence for Policeman Convicted of Murdering Protesters

Mohamed Ibrahim Abdel-Monem

Killed 20 protesters

"at random"

Got sentenced to death 

on the 22nd May 2011

Mubarak to be Tried in Criminal Court

Pretty ugly situation ...

Egypt's public prosecutor has referred former president Hosni Mubarak to stand trial in a criminal court for his alleged role in the killing of anti-government protesters during the country's uprising.



The charges for Mubarak included "intentional murder, attempted killing of some demonstrators ... misuse of influence and deliberately wasting public funds and unlawfully making private financial gains and profits", the prosecutor said in a statement on Tuesday.


The prosecutor also referred Mubarak's two sons, Ala'a and Gamal, and a close confidant, Hussien Salam, to stand trial in a criminal court as well. Salam, a businessman, has been blamed for a controversial deal to supply Israel with gas at lower than usual prices. He has fled the country.


What with a policeman being charged with the death sentence for killing protesters in Egypt during the revolution, many voices, including newspaper can see the possibility of Mubarak having the same penalty.


However, there are sceptics, it seems that everytime the youth and other protest fired Egyptians organise a mass protest, like the one this coming Friday, the administration makes some concessions. However, making some concessions are not enough. What is more, having spoken to people - they know the concessions are part of a wider plan to pacify the protesters.




Egypt Tourism Slashed post-Revolution

So today I read quite the statistic about tourist figures in Egypt:

In February, there were just over 200,000 foreign visitors, while the year before the number was 1.1 million.

(Al Jazeera)

That is a HUGE drop! It was pretty obvious whilst at the pyramids just how few tourists were in Egypt, but when you take a look at the numbers from February, you begin to worry about the economic state of Egypt, a country where tourism brings a lot of its income.

There is a good video on Aljazeera concerning this fall in visitors: http://www.aljazeera.com/video/middleeast/2011/05/201152365513846172.html

Being in Egypt now, it does feel like Andy and I are some of the only visitors. I hope it changes during the high season of summer, for Egypt's sake...

cav post...

by popular demand...well 3 people, i have decided to contribute to the blog. superb effort so far from moush.

as you know i am not politically minded, but its been fascinating listening to the stories about the revolution and the way of life in these parts. From Moush's cousins getting shot (they are ok now) on Tahrir square to state tv showing a documentary about fish whilst the revolution was happening. 

i have taken a few snaps - but not as many as i wanted to - but hopefully some will be website worthy soon.

here is one anyways:

 cairo in the evening...on the nile.

cairo looks best at night...and night is when egyptians live. its a 24hr culture here, which is something to get used to vs. tubes closing by midnight in london. even with a curfew in place from 2am, the city is alive - and i have been assured that cairo and alex had more people walking around, going to cafes and bars pre-revolution, i.e. pre-curfew. so when the curfew is lifted, it will be even crazier than what we are seeing.

i am also suprised by the friendliness of the people here - not just moush's friends and family (who have been so nice), but friends of friends, and complete strangers. I got told about a bar in Agami which has the slogan 'there are no strangers here, only friends you haven't met' - which kind of sums it up. 

peace and love to all in the uk...i'll do another post when i have taken some more paps.

cav x

Fresca and Bikinis ... Agami, Bianci beach I

This is especially for my sister, Emma:

We did some reconnaissance of Agami beach this weekend, a 20-30 minute drive from Alexandria's centre... we will be staying and partying in Alex for the last 3 weeks we are in Egypt. It is a cool, chilled out area of the North Coast were the middle classes of Egypt tend to go in the summer.

When we were there it was pretty chilled, and with white soft (And sticky) sand, Mediterranean weather and green waters, its irresistible and BUSY!

Agami beach 

Fresca seller (wafer honey treats) and girls in bikinis ....

Fooooooood and Drink Part II: Alexandria

I am going to put it out there, but Alexandria has the best food in Egypt! FACT!

From fish, sea food to good old fashioned Egyptian food Alexandria's restaurants, street sellers, coffee shops use the best and freshest ingredients to create some of the most delicious, and yet simple dishes we have ever had (Andy agrees)!

Take a look ....

Traditional Egyptian food: Vine leaves and Peppers stuffed with yummy rice!

A treasure chest of meat! From kaftan (lamb) to chicken shewarma, all cooking on their own barbecue!

Modelling with meat: Shamel, a close old friend

Sitting by Alexandria's fortress we stumbled across a Greek club serving some AMAZING sea food - calamari to die for!

Hand picked shrimp by Andy caught on the day!

1.6 kg of fresh fish (you can pick the one you want) served with lemon and oil 

Modelling with fish: Stephanos

Kosheri - street food, typically Egyptian, and costs nothing ... around 50 pence for a huge serving! 

Made up of: rice, spaghetti, past, chick peas, fried onions and tomato sauce, drenched in a delicious soup and hot sauce! You eat this and you will be comatosed! 

STEAK AND CHIPS! FIT!

Ice cream!

A cone either side of a lump of this fresh ice-cream ... not thick and creamy but light, fresh and milky.

Oh, me and a friend, close friend 

Modelling with me: Nagla

Egyptians, needless to say, know how to eat! 

Hurghada - Red Sea

Hurghada - The Red Sea 

Hurghada is an extremely popular destination we found for the Russians, Germans, French (few) and Arabs. Located on the red, Hurghada has beaches that stretch for miles, most of which has been cut up for each Hotel resort. It is hot and yet, unlike Sharm El Skeikh, has a lovely breeze alongside the sun. We went to Hurghada for two weeks and it was gorgeous. 

View from our room. 

Cav et Pina Colada. Happy hour at the Marriott Island bar started at 3 every day - alriiiiiiight! 

Us on a snorkelling trip!

The red sea is notorious for its underwater life, and it rose to the occasion when we were taken out on a snorkelling trip, there were vast numbers of fish of different kinds living in and around beautiful and colourful coral. 

We are in Alex!

We arrived in Alexandria yesterday! 

Alexandria is the the second biggest city in Egypt, residing on the North coast. 

We have a apartment and this will be our gaff for around a month and a half! 

Stage 3 of Egypt trip begins ....

Suzanne Mubarak to return some of her millions ...

Suzanne Mubarak has been called in for a detention period of 15 days with a charge of corruption and eliciting the ex-President's power for personal gain. She is currently, alongside Mubarak and his sons Alaa and Gamal (who are both in Cairo's Tora prison) in Sharm El Sheik on house arrest, unable to leave the country, and with their assets frozen.

Suzanne looking flash 

Suzanne had reportedly suffered from a heart attack after a 3 hour interrogation on Friday, however the Associated Press news agency said that she was now in stable condition after treatment for a "panic attack".
She has effectively been detained in the hospital pending further investigation of corruption allegations, officials said on Saturday - this will be for 15 days. 


However, it has been reported today that the former first lady returned a villa in the Egyptian capital, Cairo, and transferred the power of attorney on Monday for authorities to withdraw up to $3.4m held in two of her bank accounts, Egyptian state news agency MENA said. Reports say this has occurred due to her imminent detention and questioning. So will money buy her out of detention and essential questioning by the current administration? I sincerely hope not, because that was the way of the old regime, the old way of Egypt, if Egypt is to start again, with higher morals then overriding the detention would be a serious step backwards and would alleviate the much needed questioning with the Mubarak regime.


In spite of my worries, Suzanne who had be going between hospital and $6 million villa in Sharm, will now be moved to detention in Cairo. 


The Mubarak family wealth is reported to total billions of dollars, including a villa in the Red Sea resort town of Sharm el-Sheikh, estimated to be worth over $36m (Al Jazeera), although many reports have totalled it to the heights of billions. The family has numerous bank accounts in foreign and local currencies, luxury apartments and villas, and valuable land holdings, a report by a financial oversight body said. 

Palestinian Promise

Palestine the Arab world has a long history, this is particularly the case for Egypt, who has fought wars, loosing (1967) and gaining (1973) land, on behalf of Palestine, at least that was Egypt's line. 

There seems to be a disconnect between the Egyptian people and administration. Egyptian people are very much supportive of Palestine and its rights as a state and as a people. However, it's not like the Egyptian government especially under Mubarak has been outwardly carrying the same sentiments,  closing borders, preventing food transportation between Egypt and Palestine, and also sitting on the fence at international peace conferences. It is, to some extent, easy to understand why. Egypt is, and always has been, toeing a precarious line between the West and the Middle East. Egypt has important relationships with the biggest countries in the West - it is the second biggest receiver of American money, after, would you believe it, Israel. Therefore, Egypt has to be careful. 

However, since the fall of Mubarak, people in Egypt, especially Cairo are talking, shouting, protesting, singing about numerous demands. Better wages, secular government, islamic government, Christian power, removal of Christians - it's all very dichotomous. However, one thing all Egyptians seem to agree on is the necessary amelioration of the plight of Palestinians. 

There was a huge demonstration in Cairo last week (see picture below), where Egyptians were calling for an uprising of the Palestinian people, much like the infamous 'al nakba' or 'catastrophe', when approximately 700,000 Palestinians were fled/expelled (much debate around which it was fled - means they chose to leave out of their own fear/willing, expelled - means there is responsibility on the Israeli side ... all very important discussions in law, all of which I feel is disgraceful, however this is a debate for another time) at the time of Israel's declaration of statehood in 1948.

Yesterday, the Palestinian people did just that. However,  according to Al Jazeera, at least one Palestinian was killed and up to 80 others wounded in northern Gaza as Israeli troops opened fire on a march of at least 1,000 people heading towards the Erez crossing between the Gaza Strip and Israel. 

This is a very important symbol for Palestinians - the key to their homes, many still have them since they fled/were expelled from their homes in 1948, many will show you without a moments notice. However, the key the child is holding, is symbolically in front of the Wall - divined the Israel's territory and the Occupied Palestinian Territory. 

In Egypt, last night there was a pro-Palestinian protest at the Israeli embassy, and it has been reported by witnesses that at least 120 people were injured, one of them critically, when Egyptian security forces attacked the demonstrators. Activists told Al Jazeera that army and internal security troops used tear gas, rubber-coated bullets and live ammunition to disperse thousands of protesters. At least two protesters were shot by live ammunition, while others were hospitalised after inhaling tear gas or being hit by rubber-coated steel bullets, some of which penetrated the skin, witnesses said (Al Jazeera). 60 people were detained, their fate is difficult to know, however their will be taken to court apparently.  

Military and security forces near the embassy briefly stopped and questioned an Al Jazeera television crew and confiscated the team's camera, according to Rawya Rageh, our correspondent in Cairo. The officers destroyed a videotape and took some of the crew's personal items, including notebooks and a camera, she said. Are we returning the the ways of the Mubarak regime? Can the military stand-in government handle a society in transition, in discussion? Here is the disconnect in full view between the administration and the people. 

Palestine is an issue that needs to be discussed by Egypt and by the international community. For Egypt's sake because their need be no deaths and for the international community's because decisions Egypt makes on the issue are bound to affect them. However, most of all for the Palestinians and Israelis who want to live together - FAIRLY. 

Building a new Egypt ... with towels!!

If Egypt was being rebuilt by this dude - it would be LOADS of fun! Check out the workmanship below...

Somewhat standard ... although it gets interesting later on ...

The monkey frighten me a tad ... hanging from the ceiling, outside the bathroom!

Andy is not quite sure on the Pan's-Labyrinth-ginger-piece-looking baby 

Genius - this crocodile is 3ft long!

Clashes between Christians and Muslims in Cairo ...

The relationship between a Coptic Egyptian and Muslim Egyptian can still provoke the limited minds of some and ignite fire as a verbal clash between the conservative Salafi group in Cairo's district of Imbaba in the NorthWest, soon developed into gunfire, stone-throwing and firebombs, leading to a different, nearby church to be set alight (see below).

I guess to some being Egyptian is not enough. However, with Egypt's long history of invasion and incorporation of multi-faceted groups, ideologies and races was Egypt ever really the homogeneous country it protests to be? There are vast regional differences between Egyptians from Cairo, Alexandria, Hurghada, Suez, Sinai - although they all seem to have similar types of humour, in look, in vocabulary, in life style and in socio-economi terms to even begin with! Going to Alex, many Cairo-based Egyptians asked us 'why?!', arguing that it was over populated and boring ... going to Cairo, Alex-based Egyptians asked us 'why?!', arguing that it was over populated and too noisy, busy, and dirty... it made us laugh because either way they love Egypt, especially their bit of it. It also reminded me of the London/rest of England chat I give sometimes.

When I see this sort of event I begin to wonder how welcome I am in Egypt ... being a halfy is probably not be enough to some people, and being a newby to living in Egypt no doubt means I am still a tourist. I enjoy tourist status sometimes, it means I can pretend not to know. But what I do know is that this sort of clash, will only drive wedges between a society which needs to find common ground, a consensus, in order to move on. I used to threaten my father that I would marry a black Jew, not really thinking it was an deep-seated issue, however, I begin to wonder ...

I also continue to ponder the action, or shall I shall inaction of the military ...

What makes me feel calmer are the protests being held in Cairo against the attack on the Coptics ... many people in Egypt understand the importance of staying united, and many know, work with, socialise, with Coptics. It's not like they are aliens. I know Coptics in Egypt and to think that they may be persecuted is sickening, they are as Egyptian as the next shisha-sucking, marlboro smoking, 'B' instead of 'P' Egyptian! Coptics make up 10% of the population - they are part of Egypt. 

Aljazeera is covering the events thoroughly (standard) ... to read more check out their website:

--- On attack: 

http://english.aljazeera.net/news/middleeast/2011/05/201157222446186609.html

--- On protests against the attack: http://english.aljazeera.net/video/middleeast/2011/03/201131243020217394.html  

Favourite saying (1)

A man trying to sell us surplus papyrus and such ...

"Money comes, money goes, but friendez stay for ever" (he had said we were his friends)

Kefaya

Kefaya was born on 2004 and is the unofficial moniker of the Egyptian Movement for Change, which eventually toppled Hosni Mubarak, with the support of other movements and people in Egypt in general. Kefaya means "enough", and encapsulates the very emotion felt by Egyptians, alongside anger and the demand for justice and fairness. This feeling is completely understandable - 30 years, actually 50 years of suppression must have taken its toll. Many didn't believe at first that the movement would amount to much, some laughed, others carried on as normal ... however it changed Egypt forever ... (see poster below)

The feeling of 'kefaya' and demand for change remains in Egypt, however the original kefaya, which drove the revolutionaries has developed and there now lies a schism, which I have felt over the last few days in Cairo. Some want to move on, 'kefaya' to 'kefaya' they feel, however some don't think enough is being done. There is tension in the air, between those who still need to be heard, and those who want to move on. The talk is plentiful from all sides, however little else, in practical terms, has happened. 


The next salient moment are the elections in September, I wonder how many more Egyptians will be filling up with the feeling of kefeya, what matters is what kind of kefaya they will be representing: one of hope, resoluteness and demands for change, or one of apathy and detachment. 


I have a feeling it will be a mixture of the two. I feel it when people say they want to move on, however, I also think that after such a momentous change, talk will be needed, education more so ... but most of all the continuation of peaceful drive, which amazed the global community and led so many people to put Egyptians forward as potential Nobel Peace Prize winners for 2011. 

Cairo View

I wanted to point out something amongst this view, the burnt in National Democratic Party Headquarters...you can see this from the tower .. it is in front of the stunning and conspicuous Cairo Egyptian Museum (orangey pink colour) 

I remember watch the building burn on AlJazeera and to see it months later sent excitement through me simply by recognising the building and imaging the spirit in the air. Many say it has stayed like that as a reminder as to what Egyptians do not want. However, part of this building, which was burnt - a testament to the rage felt by some Egyptians during the revolution, was a section devoted to women - the National Council for Women (the side you can see in the picture) ... this is it burning ...

I was a little saddened when I saw the council had been burnt, however I wonder how much the council actually did for women whilst in operation? ...

The Pyramids - grandeur and sadness combined

The

Pyramids of Giza 

looked magnificent and for once I 

wasn't taking a distressed and underweight horse 

or an aged camel, which now look all the more jaded considering

they also took part in the revolution, stampeding into Tahrir Square. 

We were on foot and able to appreciate the size and genius of the pyramids much more.

However, 

There were so few people there to see them,

there were more Egyptians than visitors, making us gold dust;

making them, to degrees I haven't seen, desperate and filled with anxiety,

to make the sell and provide for the families they have the need to fill the table with produce.

In awe,

we looked at the pyramids, 

so grand and reservedly perfect,

mysteriously looking back at us was the sphinx,

quiet and undisrupted by the chaos around it and air of neediness. 

However, I left somewhat saddened by the lack of care for these historical masterpieces

and the desperation of the people living and working amongst them, their beauty lost in change.

Finally being in Egypt ...

So,

It has been over 6 years since I have been in Egypt and said the words "mashy" (ok), or "shukrun" (thank you), or better still "eh araf da?!" (what the hell is that?!) "bil gazma adeema" (with an old shoe - in a hitting motion)! 6 years since I eat the most delicious foods, like fateer  (a pastry filled with savoury or sweet foods), falafel (which is actually green inside) or the tasty lemon juice, which my sister Mona loves so much. Soon Emma, I will eat some Kosheri! 6 years since seeing my favourite family members (minus the crazy ones) and best friends, who have shown so much love and loyalty to me in the past. Needless to say getting off the plane, at each time I eat or drink, every close friend or family member I see, I am in a state of exaltation.

When the revolution was occurring I had never felt the need to leave London so much before. I had never longed to be in Egypt so much before actually. However, I was in my workplace watching AlJazeera Live none stop! I couldn't believe I was not there, fighting, shouting and moreover helping to get rid of a man who had oppressed the country for 30 years. I was in contact with family and friends (after the internet and phone lines were brought back), which all the more made me want to be in Egypt. I arrive months after the revolution took part and have missed out ... but Egypt is re-building, and talking about change everywhere ... here I can take part.

Not much has changed in the way of food and drink, chat and temperature, which I am glad of. Nevertheless there is change in the air, I like change, let's see what the change will amount to!

Yallah (come one) Egypt :)

Foooooood and drink - this one is for Mona!

Beautiful food!

Lemon juice! 

Day 3 - Egyptian Museum

Monument outside the museum ... oh, and Cav!

Egyptian museum 

The NDP headquarters, right next to the Cairo museum. Completely burnt during the revolution

My favourite King - Hatshepsut

Day 2 - Pyramids

Pyramid - Nadine, Shamel and Me! 

The Sphynx!

Pyramid

Cav and Moush!

Day 1 - Cairo Tower

Welcome to Egypt! Welcome to the blog!

2nd May 2011 - The blog is alive! 

It is hard to believe that we have finally made it to the land of the pharaohs and noble peace makers, after months of planning and dreaming of it, but here we are, currently underneath the beautiful Hurghada sky. 

We know it has taken a few days to get this blog organised, however here she is in all her glory!

Watch this space as the blogs will start coming soon ... this will be the best way for you all to keep in touch with us and the quickest way to let all you crazy cats know what we are up to! 

Love, 

Moushira and Andy x